HOW TO INSPECT & SERVICE YOUR GRAVEL BIKE AFTER THE UNBOUND MUDFEST
The 2026 UNBOUND Gravel was a brutal mudfest. Deep water crossings, relentless rain, and miles of sticky peanut butter mud put bikes through the toughest conditions they’ll ever experience… well, maybe until next year.
If you were out there in the mud, your bike has earned a thorough once-over. Or, if you’re tackling super muddy and wet conditions at home, this is the perfect opportunity to learn what your bike needs after the most extreme gravel riding. Here's how to bring it back to full health.
Step 1: Wash It
Every inspection starts with a proper wash. If you have a bike stand, use it. Pulling your wheels gives you access to every nook, and a clean bike is a lot easier to inspect and service. Don't rush this part.
Be sure to dry your frame and components fully, and relube your chain. Don’t let your chain sit dry/unlubricated because it will lead to corrosion and wear!
Step 2: Drain Trapped Water and Remove Mud and Debris
Even a well-sealed frame can collect water after a full day in the wet. Most frames have holes for draining water, but during a mudfest, these can get clogged. Clean out any drain holes, remove your seatpost and cranks to drain your frame tubes, and remember to check your wheels! If water got past your rim tape or valve stem, you may need to pull the tape to drain and dry the inside of the rim.
While you're at it, wash or wipe away mud or debris collected inside the bottom bracket shell, inside the head tube, and inside the seat tube. Cleaning these areas will require removing your cranks, fork, or seatpost, but it’s worth it.
Step 3: Inspect Everything
Go over your bike systematically. Use a flashlight. Here are the key things to look for:
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Tire rub wear on fork legs, chainstays, and seatstays
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Chips, dings, or deep scratches
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Gummy or sticky cables (only applies to mechanical drivetrains)
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Excessive chain and chainring wear
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Brake pad thickness (mud and rain destroy pads)
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Bearings — headset, bottom bracket, derailleur pulleys, wheel hubs — anything that feels rough or doesn't spin freely
A Note on Your Frame
This is where titanium earns its reputation. Your Litespeed frame came through the mud just fine. Ti doesn't corrode, doesn't chip like paint, and doesn't care about water. You may have picked up some scuffs — that's normal, and they're purely cosmetic. You can buff them out with a polishing compound if you like, or leave them as badges of honor. Either way, your frame is fine.
Step 4: Service As Needed
Reapply grease anywhere metal meets metal:
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Headset bearings
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Crankset spindle
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Front and rear thru axles
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Seatpost
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All threaded contact points: pedals, bottle cage bolts, cockpit bolts, seat clamp bolt
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Remove the cassette and regrease the freehub
Replace or service components that took a hit:
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Bottom bracket — if the bearings feel rough or gritty, service them or replace the bottom bracket entirely.
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Brake pads — brake pads can get destroyed by a single wet race. Replace them if they’re worn beyond 50-75%.
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Chain — clean thoroughly, check for rust, excessive wear, or broken links, and relube it with a fresh coat of wet lube. Use a chain checker to check the stretch. If it’s worn, replace it sooner rather than later. If your chain shows excessive corrosion or rust, it’s likely worth replacing to be safe.
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Chainring — inspect for hooked or excessively worn teeth.
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Derailleur pulleys — replace your pulleys if the bearings are rough or the teeth are worn down into sharp points.
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Cables and housing (mechanical drivetrains) — mud works into housing fast; replace cable and housing if your shifting feels sluggish or inconsistent.
Your Litespeed is built to handle days like UNBOUND, but a little post-race care goes a long way. Take care of your bike, and it can take more UNBOUNDs in the future!
